Alpen Hue

Feeling like a prisoner on day release having been unexpectedly turned loose in the wonderful Italian Alpine town of Courmayer.  Today was a particular hard day, and I have not had enough time to properly record my thoughts however the availability of wee-fee, a large G & T, and a little bit of time, is not to be passed up, so although it was not my intention to bore you with every little detail, the following is all I have to send. 

Sunday 26 June (8 hours walk, 8 kms - 3 stops for smoko and lunch)

Breakfast (only served at Madam who owns the hotel's pleasure!) is not until 7.30am, so we don't set off as early as we would wish given it is going to be such a hot day.  After a cable car ride to the top of the mountain, we eventually set off at 9.30am.  Too late given the already high temperatures.  We walked the entire day in 30+ degrees.  As I write it is 7pm and the sun is still burning hot.

There are no words to describe the beauty which surrounds us.  Bright blue cloudless sky, rolling green cols and mountains to one side, and the snow covered lesser peaks of Mt Blanc on the other.  There are rivers (one with a swaying bridge for us to cross), and glaciers, beautiful trees, green meadows, and wild flowers absolutely everywhere.  We can hear the tinkle of cow bells (and also sheep bells).  Indeed we have lunch on top of the col with a flock of sheep - black and white, and some with very long tails. 

We say Bonjour, Merci, and v.v., endlessly to the dozens of other hikers as they pass.

Eventually we do a 600 metre descent - very steep, and difficult because of the loose gravel - at least as hard as navigating the slippery mud of Mt Donna Buang, my only benchmark for this kind of thing.  Simon says it's his least favourite of all the alpine walking tracks.  I take some comfort from that considering Simon runs up and down mountains for a living, half the year.  We arrive at the Refuge de Miage, a beautiful place in the valley on the edge of a river flowing straight from the ice.  Having stupidly worn my non breathing MDA t-shirt, I was so hot, and dying to jump in that river.  Instead I settled for a refill for my empty camel back.  Icy cold, wonderful water.  There were lots of people enjoying the river, lots of doggies playing.  A perfect spot on a perfect day.

Then we had a very steep climb up the other side of the valley to our home for the night Auberge Le Truc @ 1750 metres.  I have quickly learned that what goes down must come up, and if you descend into a valley somewhere, you can be certain there is a steep ascent out of it!  As I turned the final corner and saw it perched on the precipice, it was my Ritz Carlton in the mountains.  The reality was far different.  No showers, no hot water, and one bunkhouse for everyone staying here - a French group and ourselves.  I have snagged a bottom bunk.  We have all splashed around under the cold water tap, and have just enjoyed dinner.  Cuisine ordinaire again, but we would have eaten anything!  I think the place is named Le Truc in honour of its very truculent owner!  We are also in the prettiest spot in the world, so we can't have everything can we!

Sundown was just lovely, and we were lucky to see "Alpen Hue" which is the few moments of the day when the snow covered Alps turn bright orange.  Then for those who needed to visit the bathroom during the night, another wonderful sight awaited - stars galore, and the lights from the villages and towns along the valley floor.  All the while there is the non-stop tinkle tinkle of cowbells. 

An early night.  I bought my slippers with me to wear each night over dinner, thinking it would be freezing cold, and my feet would be hurting however it is still burning hot and my feet are fine!  A very big day, but I feel good. 

Monday 27 June

That was an interesting night!  24 of us in a bunkhouse in 8 lots of 3 up and 3 down - our group and a group of six French.  The interesting thing about that was that we (Australians) all went to bed - at different times, and were all very considerate, in terms of talking etc.  Not the French, they came to bed, and proceeded to rustle around in their back packs, and whisper loudly, and giggle.  Then this morning, inhibited souls that they are, they pranced around in their underwear.  The ladies in see-through lace, and men in their jocks - and they were all well and truly "north" of 50!

Breakfast was even more ordinaire than dinner.  A bowl of coffee or tea, and bread and jam - end of story!

We packed up and headed off- some on a route via a forest, and six of us along a river.  About a 6 hour day, and only 8 kms or so, but interesting and challenging in parts.  I have learned already that when the guides say today is an "easy" day, it actually means hard!!  I have also learned that "a gentle climb out of the valley": means something very different.  But, ignorance is bliss, and I just plod on.  It's even hotter than yesterday.  Today began with a 500m descent over a "carpet" of tree roots - I think they are almost as treacherous dry as they are wet!  Eventually we reached a gravel 4WD track, and went steeply down into the village of Les Contamines.  Time was with us so we had a cuppa in the main street, bought a couple of cheap, cooler T-shirts (all the hiking stuff is on sale), and then walked along the river to Our Lady of Notre Dame - a gorgeous church in the middle of a national park.  We ate our lunch by the river, and the brave among us dangled our feet, or jumped in (Dave our guide). 

The water is straight off the snow, and so within 3 seconds feet were aching and shortly thereafter, numb!  Then we had the tricky, steep climb up to our home for this evening The Nant Borant We even stopped 100 yards from the refuge for a drink and a soak under a sprinkler.  The refuge is lovely - a nice owner, and nice rooms - approx 10 to a room.  Lovely lawn with lots of chairs and umbrellas.  Clothes lines for our washing, showers!!!!  And a delightful dinner - pumpkin soup, roast pork and potatoes Dauphinoise and then a delicious tarte aux pommes to finish with.

Superb views of course.  Breakfast was bread and jam and cereal - we are getting there!

Each day we have a baguette making session before we depart - our driver Joy, buys supplies each day for us to use the following morning.  Isn't it funny, that when we began to travel to Europe in the '70s this was how we ate, and nothing has changed!

Tuesday 28 June

A different day today - it's an 8-hour walking day (plus stops), and very difficult.  30 plus again.  That means 10 hours plus for me because I am always at the end of the pack (unless you are the lead dog the view is always the same!!!), plus it is impossible for Paul to ride his bike.  Neither of us wants to be the ones to hold up the group after such a day so, he and I descend the mountain again into Les Contamines - incredulous that we actually walked up it yesterday.  Lots of sheer rock.  Thank goodness it is dry.  We meet Joy outside the church by the river and help her with the baggage which has to come down from the Refuge by 4WD.  Then we drive to Megeve to purchase supplies, and on to Les Chappieux for the evening.  The drive is breathtaking - quite literally.  Truly an alpine road, with no barriers, and we are on the "wrong" side since we are ascending.  We are not surprised at all to learn that it is only open in summer.  We stop at a bar overlooking a large dam, and enjoy our lunch with some Danish cyclists.

Eventually we venture down into the valley where we are to spend the night - on a farm which also has a lovely refuge called Les Mottets.  Joy drops me 30 minutes away and I enjoy the lovely walk along the valley.  Wildflowers everywhere, lovely rivers, cowbells tinkling, snowy Alps one way and rolling green cols the other.  I am literally walking the "chocolate box" or the "calendar" - take your pick.  But, it is so hot - even hotter than yesterday, and I am frying.  The refuge is lovely, everything is new, so the smell of fresh concrete is pervasive.  A nice shower block where I further perfect the art of showering in 5 second bursts - that's exactly how long the water runs before switching itself off.  Washing is done and almost dry.  I am getting a head start on tomorrow by cutting up the tape I need for my feet (now there's a pretty sight!), and sorting my backpack - amazing what a mess that is in by the end of the day.

A funny night in the refuge - a large dormitory - previously a cow shed!  And a couple of rooms for 4 in another building, I snagged one in the latter.  In a way it's good being the "nana" on the trip, the young ones tend to defer!! 

Dinner was wonderful.  Alarmed to see the same Mesdames and Messieurs we met 3 days ago, one of whom is still prancing in the same pair of undies!!!

Wednesday 29 June

Up and at 'em today for a long climb to the Col de Seigne which is the Italian border.  I have previously entered Italy by every single other mode of transport (save for horse/donkey), and today I walked in, but not before a very long steep climb out of our beautiful home last night - which was a working farm by the way and one which makes the famous (and v.  expensive Beaufort cheese).  Just as with the wine, cheese "provenance" is strictly controlled here (we are still in France by the way!), so Beaufort cheese only comes from Beaufort.  Last night we snacked on cheese which sells in Paris for Eur40.  Here it is Eur 12.  Love it, and we eat it like chocolate!  Uncomfortable night, hair dirty, ditto clothes, and I share a room with Boris (dead after a big day).  Who cares.

So we carefully pack our warm woollies in anticipation of wild weather on the way, and walk hard to get to the summit before it arrives.  Cold on the top, but we are also at altitude of 2500 metres, and once we began our descent into Italy, we quickly shed the outer layers.  We plod along and eventually reach the Rifugio Elizabetta - high in the mountains and right beside a glacier - try Googling it.  Really hard thing is having to "pick" every step - if you could just walk without having to worry too much what was underfoot, it would be easy.  Otherwise hard on the brain as well as the body. 

Amazing spot We then descend down and down to the valley floor and walk to our pick up point to get to tonight's Rifugio Monto Blanco just outside Courmayer, and so it is that I am here blogging you.

To look at more photos, please click here www.wingsaway.com.au/snaparazzi

More soon....