Miyajima sunset

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Our train arrives in light rain, which rapidly becomes a torrential downpour.  So our visit to the Atomic Bomb Memorial Park and Museum becomes a sodden affair.    Our guide with the orange pom pom isn't going to let the rain deter her.  From under the bus comes a supply of (brand new with tags) umbrellas, one each, and off we go. We learned lots from our guide, which Barry and I appreciated since our previous two visits although on bright sunny days, were self guided.   I also learned that one K. Rudd has the most appalling hand writing!   There is a section in the museum where they display a photo of visiting dignitaries and a message hand-written by them.  Let's just say that Krudd's tiny, erratic back-hand was less than statesman-like.   No comments about my disgusting hand either, please!   We then spent some time in the very graphic, but well presented museum before an hour long walk in the rain through the park, to the A-Bomb dome, one of just a couple of buildings to survive the bomb, 65 years ago.  

Naturally all of us reflected on the horror of that and said silent prayers for it never to be repeated.  (Barry & I also said silent prayers for fine weather for our trip to Miyajima).  

The gloomy rain somehow complemented our visit to the A-Bomb complex, but Miyajima could not be done in the rain).   

At the same time, we marvel at how such a beautiful city as Hiroshima, and it truly is beautiful, can be created out of such horror.  Surrounded on three sides with pretty mountain ranges, and fronting a spectacular harbour, itself dotted with island peaks.   There are 6 rivers (or livers as our guide called them).    So many beautiful parks and gardens - immaculately tended of course.   Obviously the central city is relatively new, with only the original trams from the 1940s nodding to Hiroshima's past life.   Remarkably the trams were operational again, just three days after the bomb, but with no electricity to run them they had to use coal.  Some of those trams are still operational today.   Alongside them are examples of just about every tram ever built - old and new, because many overseas cities sent donations of trams during the re-building process.  We learned that there are still 40,000 victims in Hiroshima 

All that brending of religion and prayers to the myriad Shinto gods has paid off because we wake to fine sunny weather on our second day.  We spend the morning strolling, eating, shopping.  Some of our group went to the art gallery across the road from the hotel - just 60 cents to enter and see a fantastic collection.    

Our afternoon coach/ferry trip to the nearby island of Miyajima was a delight, and it is here I also recommend you add to your bucket list.

Miyajima is famous for its massive vermillion coloured tori gate which seems to float on the sea, and it and the shrine behind are a special place for the Japanese (and clever Australians!).    We walked all over - up into the mountains to see the maple forest and creek beside the Iwaso Ryokan which we stayed at on our last visit, and which has a pavilion in the grounds which the Royal Family uses.   We wandered the little shopping street, stopping to sample the famous maple cakes which are unique to the island, and to see the beautiful garden which curiously, each shop seems to have in the back.  That's where you sit to eat your 70 cent cake, and drink the complimentary cup of tea which comes with it.   Friendly (sacred) deer roam freely - including inside the shops and somehow add to the sweetness of this place.  We shop for souvenirs - wooden spoons being the favourite.  We were even lucky enough to encounter a wedding, with a delightful bride who was only too happy to have us take 1000 pictures of her magnificent kimono.  We found a newly opened coffee roasting place and enjoyed a glass of wine/coffee etc while waiting for the sunset, at which time we went down the hill to take many photographs, and to walk out at the low tide, and see the arch, and marvel at its enormity from close range.

We retrace our steps by ferry and coach and eventually get home to the hotel in Hiroshima - exhausted - by 7.30pm.  Our evening ends with a fabulous meal of hiroshimayake - the local dish.   Noodles and vegetables sandwiched between pancakes and cooked on a hot plate by hunky young men!